Thursday, August 19, 2004

Moskva slezam ne verit

Aeroflot. Cómo es que todavía existe Aeroflot?

El pasaje en mi mano me transportaba a mi infancia, películas de espías en tardes pegajosas de superacción. O esas noches en que mis viejos me arrastraban al cine Cosmos a ver pelis de comunistas, y donde siempre algún anciano en estado de semi-decrepitud me sacudía los rulos y me hablaba de Stalin. 1979: Moscú no cree en lágrimas.

El viaje no fue corto, no. Y Aeroflot, contra lo que todos esperaríamos, no sirve vodka a bordo. Globalización, supongo.

El frío moscovita de aquel marzo '98 no lo voy a olvidar facilmente. Saliendo del aeropuerto el frío me nubló por completo. Un taxi, antes de congelarme. Abordaje inconsciente, preguntas en ruso, respuesta imposible. Dije "Kremlin", y el taxi arrancó.

Plaza Roja. Estoy en Moscú, se me hace evidente. No tengo planes. No tengo dónde parar. No hablo ruso. P. Petrovich, un teléfono, sin dirección.

Busco un bar desde donde llamar, y el bar es finalmente lo que tanto busqué: un verdadero bar de borrachos en Moscú. Antes de llamar, la bebida me llama. Y nuevamente, como no podía ser de otra forma, el cantinero me habla de Stalin.

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